Target species: Red kaloi or giant red gourami (Osphronemus septemfasciatus)
Personal thoughts on this maiden fly fishing trip for the beautifully ugly red kaloi in Kalimantan. Beginner fly fishers or those not very proficient in fly casting may struggle in here.
Watch Part 1 of The Trip in the video below
Having said that, the week that we had on this trip was in challenging conditions. We had a lot of rain just days before and it was flooding in the beginning of the trip.
Welcome to Borneo the third largest island in the world after Greenland and New Guinea. Australia is not classified as an island, in case you’re wondering.
What the rivers in Borneo have in store for us? Total mix of dirty, deep, and fast currents!
This maiden journey we’re on, It’s all about chasing after this wild-looking fish, the red kaloi, on the fly. Hoping to see one of those bad boys eat a dry fly in a watery explosion (I was wrong about that aspect of their habit – I’ll share more later). Exciting stuff, trust me.
So, our first trip has four intrepid fly fishermen – Irhamy, Aznir, and David, all big names in the Malaysia fly fishing scene, alongside an eager participant – myself.
This trip demands some serious cash and investing a chunk of our time.
DAY 1: Getting There
The journey kicks off with the excitement of a direct flight from Kuala Lumpur to Balikpapan (BPN) courtesy of AirAsia.
Our original plan to hop on a flight to Melak from BPN crumbled at the eleventh hour when we were told that the flight had been cancelled.
So the new scenic route is now a 2 hours transfer by road to Samarinda and spend a night there on 14 January followed by a six to seven hours water taxi transfer up the Mahakam river to Melak.
Navigating the Unexpected
The journey had just begun, and already, the thrill of spontaneity was keeping us on our toes. Stay tuned for more twists and turns in the Borneo Chronicles!
DAY 2: A Water Taxi Adventure
Navigating Uncomfortable Waters and Unexpected Delays.
Embarking on an unfamiliar journey can be filled with unexpected twists and turns, turning a simple trip into an adventure to remember.
The Hurdles Begin
Our Monday morning started with a less-than-impressive hotel breakfast, setting the tone for an interesting day ahead. We gathered in the lobby at 7:15, ready for a water transfer to Melak. Little did we know that the challenges would begin right from the hotel.
Nando, our trusty guide, called for a Grab car to take us to the jetty. However, the car, a Toyota Avanza, proved too small for our group and luggage. An additional car had to be summoned, making for a delayed start to our day. Despite the hiccup, the ride to the dock was mercifully short.
A Watery Wait
Upon reaching the dock before 8am, we faced a considerable wait for the water taxi scheduled to depart at 8:30. The boarding process, initially set for 8:30, began later at 8:40. Surprise number one was we had bench seating in the stern and the boat staff continued to pack passengers in.
The boat finally set sail at 9:10, and what followed was a cramped, uncomfortable journey. Shoulder to shoulder, we couldn’t help but feel the pinch literally – the tickets for the less-than-pleasant seating cost us 450k IDR.
The Mighty Mahakam River
We would go up the Mahakam river towards our destination Melak. The Mahakam is one of the longest rivers in Indonesia flowing 980 kilometers (610 miles) from the district of Long Apari in the highlands of Borneo, to its mouth at the Makassar Strait.
We were told there are freshwater river dolphins in the Mahakam River!
A Brief Respite
After three long hours, the water taxi made a halfway stop at Kota Bangun, where we indulged in a local lunch. The food was a welcome break, even if the overall boat ride experience had left much to be desired. With three more hours to go, our anticipation for reaching Melak was building.
Rainy Roads and Midnight Arrivals
Upon arrival in Melak at 3:40 pm, the waiting game continued at the dock. Fajar and our transport were delayed, and we left the dock at 4:40, expecting a four-hour journey by road to the village at the river.
A halfway stop for dinner became an unexpected necessity as a truck had issue during the off-road section caused further delays.
We resumed our journey at 20:20, only to arrive at the village chief’s house close to midnight – in the pouring rain.
With heavy rain persisting, we couldn’t help but wonder what’s instore for tomorrow and will we be able to get to the campsite.
DAY 3: Wet Awakening
Tuesday 16 January: The following morning brought no respite as heavy rain persisted.
Despite the challenges faced during the journey so far, we could only reflect on the unexpected adventure and the stories they would carry from this unforgettable trip to Melak.
River level had risen significantly and as I write this at 4pm the water is creeping higher encroaching into the village.
Heck, the water level is just one step before coming into the house. Easily having risen 1 meter (3 feet) just in the front of the house alone.
One fishing day gone.
DAY 4: Desperados
Wednesday 17 January: It was raining again when I was awoken at 3am. Bollocks!
At 7am the water level appears to have peaked.
The sun came out and throughout the day the water level was falling.
We didn’t have breakfast until 10+ am. I guess that’s brunch while we watched the water levels recede at a painfully slow pace and ponder if there’ll still be any opportunity for us to fish.
Two fishing days gone.
Like Watching Paint Dry
16:30 the water continues to recede but at least it’s bright and sunny.
19:10 water has fallen a lot. We’re hopeful but there’re lightning and thunder in the distance.
DEJAVU
9pm After a sunny warm day it’s starting to rain again. Depressing feeling as this was exactly what was happening on Monday night and it is repeating again.
That evening Fajar comes back from Melak with Jake Meier an American guide who will be joining us for fishing.
Part 2 of Trip Video
DAY 5: New Beginning
Thursday 18 January: Woke up at 6AM.
The cockerels were screaming. Two mobile phone alarms blaring. Birds singing.
Thank goodness there was no rain. And it was a misty morning.
We will have to wait for ohm Makmur to come let us know if it’s finally okay for us to go fishing.
10:40 we’re finally going to the rivers.
11:30 we got onto the boats and moved out.
River was high and brown. No surprises there I guess.
About 50 minutes later we arrived at the Pare river confluence where two boats were supposed to fish but it was not fishable. Water level was too high and current too strong. Plus the water was very very brown.
Ended up with two boats fishing Jeremiah and Jake fishing in the shorter Dason river.
Most Beautiful
These are some of the most beautiful jungle rivers I have ever seen. Simply magnificent.
Did not go very far upstream before starting the drift down.
Not long after we started fishing the sky opened up again and it rained heavily.
David fished like a mad man. I stopped after a bit as I was thinking it’ll be difficult with a dry fly and all this rain coming down.
David broke his fly off and had to tie on a new one so I stood up to not waste the drift.
Just as we drifted past Irhamy and Aznir who were taking a break from the rain a nice red kaloi rose to eat my hopper!
I only saw the fish after I lifted the fly out of the water. Lots of shouting followed. I quickly put the fly down again and to my surprise and delight the fish turned around and ate it!
It was a nice brutal tug of war and shouting filled the air especially when the fish was netted. You can watch all the drama unfold in the part 2 video of the trip.
Later we reached the confluence with Dason and everyone was there. After a short break everyone parted ways again.
Our boat went back up Jeremiah even further this time.
Another Red Kaloi!
I managed to hook another kaloi but the 2/0 saltwater hook broke!
David landed two jelawat on popper and a lampam on a hopper.
Got to camp at 18:00 for dinner and bathed in the river.
21:00 in camp. It’s starting to rain again.
DAY 6: That Familiar Feeling
Friday 19 January
It’s been raining all night and still is at 09:00. River’s water level had gone up maybe 2-3 feet.
Went out to fish at 10:30. Still drizzling rain.
Pak Makmur took us way up Jeremiah river. Water was high and drift was fast. Not good fishing conditions at all.
And all three boats fished the same river which wasn’t ideal either.
We saw maybe two kaloi but no eats.
I had one nyenuar and a jelawat on the big hopper. David had a nyenuar also on a smaller hopper.
Went back to camp early around 4 something in the afternoon.
The others came back later. No kaloi today.
Warm and humid evening. 20:30 no rain.
Hope to be able to fish Pare river tomorrow. That’s supposed to be the best river for kaloi but we have not been able to access it thus far.
DAY 7: A New Hope
Saturday 20 January
It rained at midnight last night and everyone was going Oh No please no. Thankfully the rain wasn’t heavy and did not last long.
River level has dropped significantly in the morning. We could now see more of the rapids in front of the campsite.
All three boats headed out to the Pare river.
The river conditions was not good but fishable. Water was mostly yellowish. Flow was slower than rivers in previous days.
We went upstream for about an hour before drifting back down.
We drew long sticks to see who goes first. Jake went first followed by Irhamy and Aznir.
Problem was we had to wait for at least a 20 minutes gap. Instead of waiting our boat went a little further upstream to try our luck in ‘new’ waters.
Fishing wasn’t easy for everyone.
Jake landed a small female red kaloi. Good on him.
Kaloi Number 3
In between big lampams and nyenuar for David and me, I also had a kaloi eat the big bug fly at around 16:40.
Partly due to the fast drift speed by the time the kaloi ate my fly which I clearly saw, there was already a bunch of sunken logs in-between the fish and our boat.
The fish got in the snags no surprise there while the two guides paddled furiously to get us back up.
The two boatmen tried their best to get the fish out but it was gone.
Stopped fishing at 17:20 and headed back to camp.
Watch The Final Episode of the 3 Part Series of Videos
DAY 8: Last Shot
Sunday 21 January
No rain last night and this morning and we left the camp at 08:00 although we had earlier planned to go out a little earlier.
Two boats, Jake’s, David and me will fish Pare river. Irhamy and Aznir will fish Jeremiah.
Plan is we’ll get back to camp for lunch and pack up at 14:00. We will then head back to the village and get into 3 trucks for our trip back to Melak where we will overnight.
Stopped fishing at 14:15.
I didn’t get any kaloi eats today. Managed a beliho (a first for me) and another big ass lampam.
Explosive Ending to the Fishing
David finally had a good kaloi eat. After an epic tussle his Sage Method broke in two parts boatside. Tried to bring the fish in with the line but the leader broke.
Lost the top two sections of the rod. Incredible battle and David’s impressed with the brute strength of the red kaloi.
Back in the camp at 15:00.
Packed had a group photo and left at 16:20.
Arrived back at the village at 17:10.
Left in a triton and hilux truck back to Melak at 18:00.
Back in Melak
After four hours off road and 30 minutes in Melak we arrived at the Amanda Hotel.
Checked in and had dinner across the road joined by Fajar who had a crazy week running around receiving us and the Jake and then had to go to the mahseer river to deliver a client’s passport where their truck sank in one of the rivers…
The next day we took a domestic flight from Melak to Balikpapan where we spent two nights giving us the opportunity to explore that vibrant city.
I’d like to thank Fajar for making the trip happen. If you’re interested to do the trip please get in touch with me or if you have any questions you can leave them in the comment section below.
Until the next adventure, get out there and do what you love!
Juan Wei
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